| Artane & Coolock | ||||||||||
| Artane in the Barony of Coolock, Fingal. - A selective historical perspective by John McGarrry Tartaine/Artane (from the ancient denomination which is now uncertain, but from three different sources we have Ard Tain - Height of the Flocks ; Ard Aidhean - Aidhean's Height ; Ard In - the little Height), formed part of the extensive territory of Fingal or Ard Cianiochta as it used to be known after it was conquered in the 3rd Century by the legendary Milesian Chieftain, Cian. In old documents Artane was called Tirten or Tirtane - the initial 'T' came from the practice of adding this letter to a word beginning with a vowel where it is preceded by the letter 'n'. Mythology : If one stands on the top of Howth Head on a clear day and looks to the North-West, the plain known as Moynalty spreads like a carpet before one, notwithstanding the urban sprawl which is now Greater Dublin. Moynalty or, more correctly, Magh nEalta, the plain of the flocks, was so called from the numerous flocks of birds that congregated there in ancient times. This was one of the first areas to be cleared of forests and this was, possibly, the reason for the flocking of birds to the place. Hence I favour the explanation 'Height of the Flocks' for Artane. According to Keatings "Forus Fearsa ar Eirinn", Magh an Ealta is the earliest recorded name of any place in Ireland. It was to this region that one of the first invaders of Ireland are said to have come. Here landed the legendary Partholonians and made a settlement on the plain. Soon afterwards they were stricken by a plaque and the settlement was annihilated with the victims being buried in Tamhlacht Partholoin or Tallaght as it is known today. In referring to the death of Partholon, the Chief of the Partolonians, Keating, refers to the area as "sean Mhagh Ealta Eadair - the old plain of the Bird flocks of Eadair. Magh an Ealta was next occupied by the race of Neimheach for a period of 217 years (according to Keating), when the Firbolgs arrived to dispossess them. Thirty six years later, the Firbolgs were forced to acknowledge the supremacy of new invaders, namely the Tuatha de Danann, a highly cultured race who brought with them the celebrated Lia Fail or Stone of Destiny reputed to be the stone upon which Jacob rested his head when he beheld the visions of angels(!!). The Tuatha de Danann remained in occupation of Magh an Ealta for nearly two centuries when they in turn were disposed by the warlike Milesians whose rule in this portion of Ireland remained undisputed for about 2,000 years. Pre-History : Later invaders had more elaborate hunting tools and their societies seem to be very advanced. They made jewellery, fighting equipment and had elaborate burial ceremonies. New Grange in the Boyne Valley is a fine example of such a burial site but here in our own area these are also examples of elaborate burial sites of these ancient invaders. When John Dalton was writing his History of Dublin there were several of these burial mounds or moats near the old village of Coolock. The most perfect of these mounds is still in existence in the grounds of Cadbury's factory near the village. Excavations of other such mounds showed they date from the Bronze Age period. Pots or urns called 'food vessels' are part of the grave goods found, as, are daggers, beads and other ornaments. This burial mound at Cadbury's is probably an early Bronze Age burial mound and is therefore the earliest actual evidence of prehistoric activity in the Coolock area. Several other mounds which are now, alas, no longer in existence, were located in Clonshaugh, Darndale and Bonnybrook. The place named Moatfield is still in existence in the area. At the beginning of the Christian era the plain lying between the Liffey and the Boyne was called Magh Breagha or Bregia, and in the reign of Conor Mac Neasa this district was ceded to Ulster by Cairbre Nia Fer, a King of Leinster in consideration of obtaining the daughter of King Conor in marriage. Ulster, however, did not retain this district for more than a century, judging from a record which tells us that when Tuathal Teachmhar ruled as High King (A.D. 116 to A.D. 160), Bregia was included in the province of Meath. From the 5th to the 9th century the plain of Magh-Mhuireadha in Bregia belonged to Meath. Early Christian Times About four miles north of Coolock, a very famous church was founded in the early 7th century by St. Duileach (St. Doolough) who is thought was a native of the area. The full name of St. Doolough's as recorded in ancient writing is Clochar Duiligh which means the stone church of Doolough and is, today, one of the most admired sites of the Irish early Christian Church in the area. On the side of the main Dublin Malahide Road at the entrance to the church stands a plain stone cross which probably dates from the early days of the church. Coolock also had its early Christian church which was dedicated to St. Brendan the Navigator who died in the year 577 A.D. This original church of St. Brendan was situated on the Tonlegee Road where the present Church of Ireland of St. John the Evangelist stands today. In the churchyard of this present day church stands a small -rough granite cross which probably comes from the original church and is thought to date from 900 A.D. The Viking Period
Because of the importance of the church in those days in studying the evolution of the administrative divisions of Ireland, it is of interest to note that the Danish Church in Dublin was dependent on Cantebury which in turn was dependent on Rome. The Dublin bishops were ordained at Cantebury while the surrounding area was Celtic and intended to remain so. At the Synod of Rathbreasail in 1118, the first influence of the Roman system (as distinct from the Celtic or Eastern Monastic system) began to be felt. Under the chairmanship of the Pope's Legate, Ireland was divided into 25 dioceses. Dublin City was to remain on its own, subject to Cantebury, while for the area around Coolock, Glendalough was to be its Diocese. At this time there was no parish system set up. At the Synod of Kells in 1152 it was decided to make Dublin an Archdiocese and that Glendalough would be united with it (and consequently our area of Coolock). Glendalough and the other dioceses other than Dublin were attempting to stay independent of Rome. At the time of the Noman invasion, Dublin had its most famous archbishop in the person of St. Laurence O Toole. The Norman Period They introduced the feudal system of land ownership to Ireland and this process began the era of the Manor House whose overlord owned the surrounding land and sub let to lesser lords who in turn leased small amounts of land to Irish tenants. The Barony was introduced to Ireland as a unit of land ownership and Ireland was divided up into 273 baronies, one of which was the Barony of Coolock. Around 1170, it became the property of the Nugent family, Barons of Delvin in Co. Westmeath. Gilbert de Nugent obtained his lands, not from King Henry 11, but from Henry's Chief Liege in the area, Hugh de Lacy, who was Lord of Meath. In return he had to provide the services of 5 knights to his overlord when they were required. Under the feudal system Gilbert granted some of these lands to sub-tenants. It is of interest to note that the earliest recorded instance of the name Coolock is found in the document appointing a Walter Comyn to Swords church and its chapel at 'Culocke'.
On the 28th July 1534 an infamous event took place at Artane Castle. The Earl of Kildare had been imprisoned in the Tower of London by Henry V111. In Dublin, rumours were circulated by the King's friends, including the Archbishop, John Allen, that the Earl of Kildare has been murdered. Thomas Fitzgerald, Lord Offaly, who was then scarcely 21 years of age and who was nicknamed Silken Thomas from the silk tassels his followers wore, on hearing the rumours of his father's supposed death, rushed from the Castle at Maynooth to a room in St. Mary's Abbey. At the meeting which was in session, he flung down the Sword of State, which he was holding in place of his father, as a gesture of rebellion against the King and his forces. Archbishop Allen on hearing of Silken Thomas's rebellion, either through fear or a guilty conscience, decided to flee the country immediately. He left that evening on a boat going from near Dame Gate in the city. Either through treachery or genuine shipwreck he did not get very far. He scrambled ashore at Clontarf and made his way to Artane Castle. He immediately went to the Castle and ordered the prelate to be brought out in front him. There is some controversy as to whether Silken Thomas meant literally his next words of " Beir uaim an Bodach" (Take this Clown away from me). Either way, Archbishop Allen was brutally murdered in the grounds of Artane Castle. For centuries afterwards, the area was fenced off and it was only in the last century that the area was levelled and brought back into use. Around this time the effects of the Reformation was ripping through these islands and offered great inducements to the gentry. Untold wealth in confiscated lands was at the disposal of the Government as a result of the looting of the monasteries but to their credit the Hollywoods remained loyal to their religious principles. The most distinguished of the Hollywoods, Christopher, was born in Artane in 1559. Because of his religion he was sent abroad to be educated and in 1579 he entered the Jesuits at Dole in France. Known to his contemporaries as Christopher a Sacre Bosco, he speedily made a name for himself in the universities of Europe. He became Professor of Scripture at Ferrara and later at Padua. At this time persecution of Irish Catholics was at its highest. The pope sent Father Hollywood to Ireland to report on the situation. He left Italy in 1598 and spent the next six years imprisoned in the Gatehouse prison, the Tower of London and Wisbeck Castle. The accession of James 1 to the throne brought him relief. The King ordered his immediate deportation to Flanders but Christopher instead resumed his journey to Ireland and landed on March 16, 1604. He was immediately elected superior by his brethren and for more than twenty years worked tirelessly as a priest. During the Penal Laws, the Hollywoods made their Castle at Artane a centre of refuge for people on the run from the worst excesses of these laws. Spies of the Government constantly sent in reports about the number of priests that found shelter there and their suspicion that Mass was celebrated in the Castle. In 1630, Fr. James, Drake, Parish Priest of Coolock, who administered a huge area from the present day Boot Inn to the Tolka and the sea, resided in the Castle during the worst days of the persecution. There is also a report of that year which shows a Patrick Drake 'a Parish Schoolmaster to whom the children thereabouts goes to schoole'. This is a reference to a hedge school in the grounds of the Castle.
In 1687, we read that the lands of Artane once again were the subject of a Court ruling. John Hollywood, died in 1663 and the lands at Artane passed to his son and heir, Christopher. In 1748, we read of a 'failure of the male line' of John Hollywood and the land becomes vested in the Earl of Granard. However members of the Hollywood family continued to reside at the Castle for some years more. Within a short period, however, the lands of the Hollywoods were in the hands of different landlords. These included a family called Donnellans of Ravensdale. In 1825 a Matthew Boyle acquired the lands at Artane. He demolished the old, historic Artane Castle and in its place he built himself a modern residence on a site a few hundred metres away from the Castle. He called this house Artaine Castle. It later passed on to his nephew, a Mr. M. O'Callaghan who in 1870 sold it to the Irish Christian Brothers. It is said that some of the stones from the old castle were used in the erection of what became the Brothers' monastery attached to the Artane Industrial School. This building is now demolished. Artaine church cannot be viewed in isolation from Artaine Castle and the Hollywood family. It is, today, the only visible reminder of Artaine Castle and can be seen from the Kilmore Road or the side entrance to St. David's C.B.S. behind the Oratory of the Resurrection. The date for the foundation of this church is unknown but a reference relates to monies being paid to the Mother Church at Finglas. Also a chapel at Artane is listed in the 'Crede Mihi' which is the oldest existing record of the state of parishes in the Diocese of Dublin, dated 1275 A.D. According to the Register of Archbishop Allen, the "Capella de Tirten" would appear to have been founded sometime between 1181 and 1212 and according to the Reportorium Viride of the same Archbishop (compiled 1532) it was dedicated to St. Nicholas. As it was situated adjacent to the Castle it was to all intents and purposes a family chapel of the Hollywoods (within the remains of the chapel, was a tomb erected by Christopher Hollywood for his wife Elizabeth, daughter of John Talbot of Malahide who died in 1711). Christopher himself was interred in the same grave seven years later. The Hollywood memorial contained a centrally positioned sarcophagus, a later brick-vaulted tomb and four intact memorials. The church probably fell into ruin around 1640. It was in ruin in 1783 when one, Austin Cooper, visited the site. The memorials indicate that burials continued in and around the church up to 1874. John McGarry
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He returned to a land where he was hunted and pursued on many occasions but he always managed to elude his pursuers. One of his favourite hiding places was Donsoghley Castle near St. Margaret's, the home of his kinsman Sir Christopher Plunkett. Father Hollywood died on the 4th September 1626 and Southwell wrote of him "he governed the Irish million for 23 years with so muck prudence, charity, zeal and fortitude in the most difficult times while persecution raged against catholics". On the 28th July 1534, John Allen, the Archbishop of Dublin, was dragged from the castle of Artane and barbarously murdered before its great door by the followers of Silken Thomas Fitzgerald. Thomas Fitzgerald, Lord Offaly, who was then scarcely 21 years of age and was called Silken Thomas because of his flamboyant mode of apparel, had risen in rebellion against the Crown. When false rumours had been circulated by Allen, and others that the Earl of Kildare, the father of Silken Thomas, had been executed in London, the young Geraldine rushed to St. Mary's Abbey and flung down the Sword of State. Archbishop Allen, an enemy of the House of Kildare, fearful of Silken Thomas' revenge, made an attempt to flee the country in great haste. The light barque in which he sailed was however, driven on shore by a storm and, after landing at Clontarf, he sought refuge at Artane Castle with his friend Thomas St. Lawrence, the guardian of the young lord of the manor. He was discovered there by the Geraldines and, when brought before the rebel leader Silken Thomas, was reported to have issued the command "take away with the clown" which was mistaken for his squires Nicholas Weafer and John Teeling for "make away with the clown" when they set upon the unfortunate churchmen and butchered them. During the rebellion of 1641 the little Fingallian army under the command of Luke Netterville, of Corballis, garrisoned Artane Castle. After a raid for arms on two vessels in the Pool of Clontarf, a party of soldiers led by Sir Charles Coote, Commander of the Garrison of Dublin, burned a considerable portion of that town. Netterville and his men then left Artane and made a stand against the military in a glen about a mile to the south of Swords, which has since been known as Bloody Hollow. In 1825 Matthew Boyle, a wealthy Mary St. Linen merchant, raised the ancient Seat of the Hollywoods at Artane and erected a modern residence in the grounds which he called Artane Castle. The first school, established under the Industrial Schools' Act, was set up by the Christian Brothers of Artane in 1870. The school, with its fine range of workshops and buildings, was developed under the managership of the first Superior, Rev. Brother Thomas Hoope. With accommodation for 800 boys, Artane Industrial school which was once considered the most remarkable of its kind in Europe, closed in 1969.
Jimmy Wrenn |
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There is no record of Saint Brendan ever having visited Coolock but a holy well bearing his name was for centuries a place of pilgrimage. Today a whitethorn bush marks its site near the present Church of Ireland structure. The nearby Santry river probably gained its name slightly later. The stretch running between Coolock Bridge and Raheny became known as the Skillinglas - probably a Norse-Irish word meaning a boundary (Skil or Skyl) stream (glas). The name also stuck to the adjacent townland. During Norman times Coolock was the property of the Nugent family. In 1207 Hacket de Nugent was already exercising proprietorial rights when he brought court proceedings for an ejectment. The church at Coolock was under the patronage of Baron de Nugent until 1275, when it was appropriated by the Prior of Llanthony, the great Cistercian monastery in Gloucestershire. Later Coolock passed under the control of the monastery of Duleek and then the patronage of the Earl of Drogheda. Following the reformation, the first small chapel to be built in coolock was in 1689 during the brief interval of relaxation of the laws against catholics. However it was closed shortly afterwards with the enactment of the Penal Laws. Yet in 1780, when the antiquary Austin Cooper visited the area, he observed a very large Roman chapel in a village consisting entirely of cabins. In 1831 the chapel was rebuilt and the old thatched roof replaced with slates at a cost of £500, an astronomic sum at the time. By this time Coolock was a district noted for its rich agricultural produce, with which it supplied Dublin city. Originally the area had been covered by thick woods. During the 17th and 18th centuries there was also a busy quarrying industry. In September 1764 the Freeman's Journal reported an injury to a workman at Coolock quarry. He was taken to Inns Quay infirmary for treatment. A famous name is linked with the area from this period is that of Henry Grattan (who was born at Belcamp Park). Coolock had its own corps of Irish Volunteers in the 1780's. Known as the Coolock Independents, they were commanded by Captain James Walker. There was also a Barony of Coolock Volunteer body under the command of Captain Richard Talbot. The radical politics of the area surfaced again in 1803, during the Emmet rising. When Robert Emmet rose in rebellion his followers from all over north county Dublin gathered on the green near the present protestant church at Coolock, where they were joined by insurgents from County Meath. They were waiting for a signal to march on Dublin from Coolock, but alas it never came ! Meanwhile the same period saw a number of big houses built in Coolock. Coolock House itself dates from this time. Now the residence of the Sisters of Mercy, in the last decade of the 18th century it was the home of William Callaghan, a Dublin chemist. In the year of Emmet's rising Callaghan adopted a young Dublin orphan girl of gentle disposition as a companion for his ailing wife. Liberal protestants by tradition, the Callaghans encouraged the girl, Catherine McAuley, to practice her catholic religion and help the poor of Coolock. Catherine taught the catechism to local children in the gate lodge. When William Callaghan died in 1822 he left his entire fortune to Catherine. Five years later she founded the first Convent of Mercy school and girls' hostel in Lower Baggot Street. Another old Coolock house occupied by an order of nuns is the Holy Rosary convent, Springdale Road, which is a rest home for sisters of leave from the missions. Overlooking the Santry river, which flows through its grounds, this fine building was originally known as Brookville House. One of the most modern structures in Coolock, Cadburys factory, stands on the site of Moatfield House. This was built by James Lever, an English architect who had been employed by Gandon on the building of the Custom House. Moatfield was named after the moat, or mound, that can still be seen in the factory's grounds. Another occupant of Moatfield was James Lever's son Charles, the famous novelist who spent his childhood there. Later he was to introduce into his writings many of the features of north east Dublin. The next occupant was Michael Staunton, the proprietor of the Morning Register and Evening Herald newspapers. A friend and political associate of Daniel O Connell, Staunton became Lord Mayor of Dublin in 1847 and O Connell was a frequent visitor to Moatfield. Staunton is believed to have erected a beautiful dining room for the reception of his famous guest. A protestant by religion, Staunton supported the struggle for catholic emancipation and also established a benefit society for Coolock in 1832, to help unemployed and sick workers. Another "big house" in the area was Annesley Lodge, built by Lord Annesley in an estate of 34 acres on the Malahide Road. Early in the 19th century, it came into the possession of General Cuppage of Mount Edwards, Co. Antrim. A humane employer, General Alexander Cuppage assisted the destitute and poor labourers of Coolock during the worst years of the Famine. A newspaper report of November 1846 described him as a "noble and generous heart who sympathised with woes and miseries of his fellow men. The gallant and venerable General Cuppage always treated his labourers in the most kind and humane manner. He gave them gardens and houses free of rent, paying them weekly wages without deductions whatsoever". Clare Grove, the resident of General Cuppage, became in the 1960s the Clare Manor Hotel. It came to a sad end on the night of November 5th 1980 when it was burnt to the ground following a disco. Jimmy Wrenn |
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